Day 4 at Barrington

Yesterday had been a full day but with sunshine and warm temperatures. The night had brought yet more rain with the murmuring of the river getting louder all the time. There is an odd cackle of kookaburra coming through the closed windows, with the day light attempting to lighten the gloom of the still dark clouds while I savoured my first cup of tea. It was going to be a gloomy rainy day after all? I was quite prepared to stay put as this is also the first time I am out on the day I take my chemo. Most chemo days I am kind of OK at least for the morning with some rumbling of the stomach issues. Going out today was a definite challenge and the mood was- let’s see how far I manage to stay up.

Barrington River Crossing

While having the porridge – by now Paul had mastered the ‘tucker fucker’ (I just heard this new slang for microwave and could not resist adding it here… it is funny, apt and colourful!) and so no porridge was wasted, we decided to go further up the coast as travelling longer on the highway would not take up a lot of time. So as per usual come half past nine cool bag with blood orange drink was packed; also I get pretty cold when I take Methotrexate and since it was already a cool morning I decided to add trousers and a long sleeves top and a warmer top into the bag – better be prepared than to get cold when the fever spikes; and off we went.

Low clouds over Bucketts Mountains

Thunderbolts Way from Barrington to Gloucester

By now the roads were familiar and getting to the highway was fairly quick with very little traffic on the smaller roads. From Nabiac we picked up the Pacific Highway and went north, past Possum Brush and Rainbow Flat, towards Taree. But this time we bypassed Taree and moved further up the coast passing Cundletown, Ghinni Ghinni and Jones Island. As we came up to Jones Island the heavens opened again and we feared this looked set for the day. There was not a break in the clouds but I had to have faith it would not last long. We considered the possibility that we might have to turn back as we have done a time or two when the rain did not allow us even to stop. But by the time we got to Coopernook after which we turn off on to scenic drive route to Harrington – Crowdy Head, the rain was gone and the sun back out.

This route took us to Harrington which is at the mouth of Manning River and on to the Crowdy Head that is at the headland. Harrington is a small seaside town which extends into the Harrington Beach State Park. Since it was early we decided to go up to the Crowdy Head first and look around before returning to Harrington in time for lunch. The road is through the rainforest, beautiful and peaceful. I did not realise that there was actually a small community in this place. The views from the road side are stunning and the Crowdy Bay appears never ending. There is a surfing club and of course the marina.

Crowdy Head Marina

The Lone Ranger?

We drove round the headland and the road round the few houses and saw that we could turn right and be back closing the loop. Now usually we have seen the map and got a good idea what was there but for some unknown reason we had failed to see there was a lighthouse there. Usually the lighthouses at headlands are unmissable but this one was just round the corner from where we turned off and with no signs for the lighthouse either we missed it all together. What a shame!

Crowdy Head Bay

Windy Crowdy Head 

Crowdy Head Bay

The way back along the Crowdy Head Road to Harrington took us to Beach Road where literally the beach starts. We decided to stop at the fish and chips shop right there rather than go into the town. Then we sat in the carpark at the edge of water and had our lunch washed down with blood orange drink. At this point the Manning River joins the Tasman Sea. There is a big sandbar right across the mouth and has a breakwall that goes across the water demarcating the shallow sandbar area to protect the entry channel for shipping. There is a gap in the breakwall with a bridge across which allows the water to flow into this man made lagoon.

Beautiful Pine tree

Harrington

While eating we watched the pelicans and pied cormorants and the first pair of black swans in NSW. There was a wooden sculpture, which is painted instead of carved, of the man who built the first school there with flotsam.  

Black Swans

Pelican again

Sitting to avoid the wind

Who goes there?

More Pelicans Arrive

Esmond (Essie) Hogan

We decided to move the car down the road to be able to go for a walk on the causeway. There were more sculptures at the carpark here depicting the people who used this area as port. Walk along the breakwall was very pleasant. The different colours of water on both sides of the breakwall as well as over different areas of sandbar; the common tern and little tern diving so beautifully and gracefully into the water and catching fish; pelicans that were catching the wind and surprised us by gliding sideways just out of hand reach of us; and watching the rush of water through the opening in the breakwall.

The Breakwall

Sandbar with seagulls

Pilots at Pilot Hill

More sculptures

On the lookout

Are you coming?

Nope am staying put!

Sandbar

Waves crashing into the sandbar

The sign has its own solar panel

Water flowing though the gap in the breakwall

Bye Bye Pelicans

This short walk was I think the end of my ability to function as I totally flagged. Back in the car, I slept all the way back to the cottage. I was helped back in and spent the rest of the afternoon watching TV. Now you would think that was it for this day’s fun but no there was more to come. I had been looking forward to being out in the countryside and with little light pollution being able to see the beautiful starry skies at night. But as you know by now the rain every night had put a kibosh to that. However this night the Gods were smiling and the clouds lifted as it got darker. Oh yea we found we had a neighbour in the next cottage and of course they had the veranda lights on! But oh boy the stars… sooooo many stars….. that never get seen in the city. I always used to see Orion when I lived in the northern hemisphere and had not quite managed to see it here. It was such a joy to see it again brighter than ever seen before. I wish it had been dry outside, I would have loved to lie in the grass and just watch the stars, me thinks one could almost see that band – the milky way! Looking out of the window on to the other side of the cottage the twinkling stars through the tree there could almost be mistaken for a Christmas tree light up with twinkling lights. Closing my eyes that night with the image of the stars on my retina….blisss!

Day 3 at Barrington

Oh boy did it rain last night! I thought the roof was going to cave in with the drumming of the rain on the corrugated veranda roof. The morning sunrise never happened as the clouds were so low that the hills in front could not be seen. The river was definitely noisier than last evening. With morning tea we have a habit of looking at the news on the net and checking email as this is not checked again maybe until evening or even the next day when on holiday. Paul said it seems the net is down and checking the Wi-Fi hub - the light was red. So he spent time troubleshooting and found that our Wi-Fi had been switched off. But since there was a lead connecting the hub with the line through the wall he just pulled out the hub and plugged it directly into the laptop. Hey presto net was back on.

As usual with breakfast we pour over the maps to see where we would like to go today. Yesterday I had seen a turning off the highway for The Lakes Way, a scenic drive which at one point is literally the road with Tasman Sea on one side and lakes on the other. There are a couple of towns – Tuncurry and Forster that are historical.

This time we made proper note of the way we left Barrington and got to Gloucester just to make sure we did not get lost returning – again! We followed the road all the way to Pacific Highway like yesterday and turned to towards Taree. The exit we had to take was Failford Road turning right across the lanes. This was a smaller road and we thought let us see what road signs we come up against today. The first one was Bullocky Way and the next one was Darawank. Both were hilarious but Darawank (means dark waters) in particular as we at once thought about putting this up in Mock The Week Facebook page for Dara O’Briain to see. Shame the page does not allow us to put up the pic but a message was left! Managed to get a picture of Bullocky Way but missed out on clicking Darawank. Maybe next time……

This road ends at a T-junction with The Lakes Way. By now the sun was out and pleasant breeze was blowing – a far cry from the gloomy wet sunrise we had. Drove into Tuncurry and this is where the Wallis Lake meets the Cape Hawke Harbour and there is a long bridge connecting Tuncurry to Forster. We stopped at Tuncurry to have a look around the marina area.

Hooligans are here as well (Cockatoos)

Tuncurry Marina

Big Boat

Meeting of the Wallis Lake and Cape Hawke Harbour

Forster-Tuncurry bridge

This bridge is different for all bridges I have seen The middle was flat and the ends were raised curves.

Forster-Tuncurry Bridge

And we enter Forster and drove right across it. It is very much of a tourist town with usual shops and eating places and walking about the marina and promenade. But instead of stopping we decided to go further down The Lakes Way to the point where for a while you can see water on both sides as per the map. This area appears to be old rainforests and varied vegetation, lots of different palms about and pristine beaches without a soul on them. This is the Booti Booti National Park and it is wonderful the slightly warm salty air and sun occasionally peeping out from grey clouds. We stopped at Seven mile Long Beach and stood watching the waves. Paul even managed to get a vid clip when I was pointing to the holes in the sand and wondering if they were made by razor clams.

Enter Booti Booti

Seven Mile Beach

Alone on this windy beach

We drove a little further but realised that there is forest on either side without actual sighting of water all the way. We also did a quick stop at Boomerang Beach and turned back as it was getting to lunch time by now.

Boomerang Beach

Boomerang Beach 

Crashing waves

Trying to take off at Boomerang beach

Back to Forster and made sure we did not go to the shopping mall with its usual 74 specialist shops! But went to the town centre and found parking for 3 hours. Had a wander around for the fish and chips shop again. We could have had some fancy veggie burger with quinoa or roll with spinach and feta but chips always are the first choice at seaside. While walking the length of the high street we saw a gelato place and decided that was going to be the dessert stop. Now everyone knows we love ice cream but this gelato place was wonderful with new flavours. Paul had blood orange and dark chocolate while I had rum and raisin and fig syrup and mascarpone ice cream. Oh my it was delish! In the middle of it all I decided to see if I had mobile network and as I switched it on I saw messages pouring in with a few missed calls. Seems people were looking for me.  Indeed I got a vid call at once from my friend worried as to why I was missing for the past 2 days! I did try to take pic of my ice creams as some people I know love to see them. But I tried with my phone and the light of the sun was so strong I could not see properly and guess the pic cut off half the ice cream and top of Paul’s head…. hahahaha

Man in Forster

After lunch we wandered up the promenade to see the local pod of pelicans. Both of us are fascinated by pelicans as they are so big but so graceful even when taking off from the water. Here you find them sitting on lampposts at most seaside places.

Pelican in Forster

Came in for a portrait

Pelican pod

As we were walking past the gelato shop I spotted a kitchen ware shop and decided to have a peep in it. You see I have been trying to find a tea leaf strainer so I can do away with buying tea bags after all these years. I try being green so decided high time I gave up tea bags but did not want to buy a pot to make tea. More over its good to wander through kitchenware place as you never know what you might find. And yes there were tea strainers of all variety. I got the mesh ball and spring mesh tea infusers. The eye caught a glimpse of some crockery that was colourful. I liked a couple of bowls with patterns made in dots so we got those too.

Then it was time to start the journey back and fingers crossed to not get lost like yesterday. We saw some big bird high up but could not make out what it was. Maybe we will see it again. The galahs and rosella were out along with the wrens darting across the road. This time we found the road correctly and reached to the cottage in time for a cup of tea. The evening was pleasant but the clouds had come down again. Seems we were going to be in for some more rain. Indeed after last night the river crossing was fast flowing. Dinner was some toast and brie with tomatoes and more potato salad from yesterday and plums. Nite nite!

Clouds descending 

Day 2 at Barrington

Sleeping in a strange place is a little hard but we were pretty tired and even with waking up a couple of times we had a long sleep. The morning calls were of kookaburras cackling instead of the lorikeets that we have these days at home. We have a routine on holidays were it is leisurely waking up and having a cup of tea before shower and another cup of tea. Then I checked the email and Facebook while having a bowl of porridge. Trying to use the microwave should be easy but the instruction manual has a few pages of fine print. So the first bowl of porridge overflowed and I had to clean up the inside getting my finger caught in hot porridge.

We decided to go towards Gloucester and maybe on to Taree. Getting out of the property we turned right instead of left. Paul was certain that was the way to go and get to the main road to get back to Barrington and from there to Gloucester. The road goes up and down hills with some places being broken tar and so pretty bumpy. The clouds were low but at least it was not raining. 

Today’s strange road signs – dog trap creek and actually the dog coats sign again - it is for sale dog coats….. now is this coats for dog or coats made out of dog hair. Another sign said No Bull... did it mean they only had shit? One more - Looking for free mulch - now were they looking for it or were people passing by were looking for it and could get it there? I have seen somewhere on the net that cat and dog hair can be used to make coats. By the time we reached Gloucester the sun was peeping out and the weather was cool and pleasant. We stopped at a parking place right next to the tourist information. We have found that it is the best thing to do when you enter a new area or town as you can get a fair amount of information and have a pleasant chat with the people working there.

Got some local maps and leaflets about waterfalls and local birds. Yesterday I had seen some beautiful birds. A quick glimpse had been of a red head and a green body with white speckles. Having looked this description up on the net I found it was the Eastern Rosella. So getting the bird leaflet was good I thought but I was wrong as there are only names and no pictures. For someone who is new like me it is not very helpful. I had to search for local birds images then click to see if I could find a name. NO that would be too simple! Some people put up photos without any names and so I end up copying the image and doing an image search. A nice little lesson on researching the Internet.

Eastern Rosella

This town was 200 years old in 2003 and the celebration of that double centenary included putting up of mosaics on the oldest building which used to be originally barber’s shop and then a newsagents. It still is a newsagent’s store. Then we walked up and down the high street and found that small squares of mosaics embedded in the pavement at regular intervals. While you can see the pictures of the big ones I did not want to put up about 30 small ones too. 

List of Mosiacs

Had a quick look at house prices – something I like doing. There seem to be much fairer price of properties around here.

Local Grocery Store

Bucketts Mountain and its replica

Onward to Taree from here. We had to make our way from Gloucester along Bucketts Way to Nabiac. There are 2 ways of going to Taree from there by this time we were in a convoy of a big milk tanker in front with 3 cars and then us and a lorry behind us. We thought of taking the smaller road which is shorter by 4kms. But as we turned into it and saw the surface was not too good we decided to turn around and get back behind the truck to go for the pacific Highway. The first exist on the highway was called Failford Road and said it lead to The Lake Ways – another tourist trail. We got to Taree about 11 30 am. This seemed a much bigger town. Gloucester had a population of 2500 but Taree is about 18000. The town has a couple shopping malls across from each other- Manning Mall and Taree Central. Both are not very big and with usual shops and supermarkets. There are places to eat as usual. After checking out the food court we decided to have a look around before deciding if this is where we wanted lunch. Then driving around to see if we could find a chip shop (there should be one as this is riverside) we got lost around the small streets. 

Uniting Church

Beautiful School

We got to Chatham which is a suburb and found a pie shop which certainly did not chips. We ended up driving around and coming back to the riverside. We could see the bridge across the Manning River – Martin Bridge. There was a restaurant just there and it looked good. There was a small play area for kids in front with many benches for people to sit and relax by the waterside and have lunch. I would love to be working in this small town just for the afternoon lunch time by the river. We sat outside in the restaurants and watched channel 7 doing a on the spot interview with one assumes a local businessman? There were the usual seagulls and a few pelicans lazily flying and paddling about. A pleasant afternoon lazy lunch. The smoothies were unusual – one was mixed berries, banana, vanilla, yogurt and fig syrup and the other was raspberry delight which had gingerbread syrup, raspberries and yogurt. A good experience which could have been better had this been a nice cold drink for by now the sun was beating down and it was 31C.

Manning River

Martin Bridge over Manning River

Across the Manning River

Post Lunch Sugar hit

Lone Pelican

Large Clam which failed as tourist attraction and now a car dealership

We started back and decided to return the other way back to Gloucester – Bucketts Way. We thought it could not be worse than other small roads that we had travelled. This was scenic way through the hills. And we came across the longest ever road works on which on one was working. I mean the road had been tarred but no lines were drawn yet and warning of loose gravel every few meters. It was about 10kms or so but no problem as there was just us and other couple of odd cars poodling along. Now when we got to Gloucester and thought right just a few more kilometres and we are home and thinking of that cup of tea we forgot that the nearest way from Gloucester to Barrington was not along the Bucketts Way (after all yesterday was not that far back in memory). So off we went further away from Barrington on the main road. We fairly whizzed pass the Gloucester Tops Road and did a quick stop and u-turn to get back on to the road to get to the right road. Now this looked familiar as we drove up it. Further along we got to a split in the road and saw that Barrington was one way and Gloucester was also along that way. Seeing that we turned down and as we went further it all looked unfamiliar. Opps now we were on the road that was getting narrower and going towards where? There was a creek to cross and indeed the next one was a ford with swift flowing water coming half way up the wheels. Eventually we got to the main road – ah yes Bucketts Way again and much nearer to Gloucester than we wanted to be. So back along the way to the turning of Gloucester Tops Road. We had done a big loop and not found Barrington and I had visions of us going round and round in circles being so near and yet so far from Barrington. This time we drove very slowly after the first split in the road and found the sharp turn left we had missed the first time as the sign was hidden among the leaves for the bushes. Suddenly now we found the familiar bits of the road and reached an hour later that expected.

Got back and sat down with a cup of tea in the veranda and the drizzle started. Then it continued to rain heavily all through the night. The gusts of winds making the rain hammer down on the roof till we could not hear the TV on full volume. It was pretty noisy trying to sleep.

Day 1 at Barrington

Ohhhh holidays…. After nearly 3 years. This is the week of Paul’s birthday celebrations. We have been to many places down south and only once up north till the Hunter Valley. So we thought maybe it was time to move a little further up.  Saw this place called Barrington Riverside Cottages situated at the edge of the Barrington Tops National Park, with the nearest small town called Barrington. It looked picturesque and so we booked it.

We were leaving on Sunday morning and as usual I was packing half hour before we were due to leave. By the time I had collected a few clothes, all my medicines and chargers for phone, camera and tooth brushes as well as a cool bag with water and some bread butter cheeses I felt as if I was carrying more than half my house with me.

Filled the car with petrol and then decided might as well take some cash as we have no idea if the pay wave would work in some of the smaller places. There is definitely an issue with phone and internet connections in the countryside. Right it was 10 30 am when we finally turned off the road from our burb and thought blimey this is Sunday and where are all these people going? However the traffic was moving and we reached the freeway to find a traffic jam as there was a car broken down just 2 exits away. The left hand lane was closed further up but do you think that people would right away move into the other lane? Oh no! we have to bomb up the closed lane right up to the point of closure and then barge into the middle lane getting one up on people who were obeying the traffic rules.

Once past the breakdown the road opened up and off we went. We drove up the M1 right the motorway ends and then becomes Pacific Highway. Amazing seeing names of places from around the world as Toronto exit was just before Swansea; Newcastle and Wallsend and Cardiff. Since we were taking it easy and also like to see as much of the countryside as we can we went off the highway to take the Tourist Trail 2 called the Bucketts Way. By now it was coming up to 12 30 pm and I said we need to stop and have a break; maybe find something to eat? So next rest stop we came to we stopped and of course it was only toilets and a few seats. So off we went again after stretching the legs. The road was single lane each way and just trees and grass around. I think it was all part of people’s farms as often there were cattle chewing the cud or sitting about. There were signs along the way that were amusing, like Pony Poo $2; Piglet for sale; dog coats and so on. We also skirted the edge of Karuah National Park, past Booral to the historic town of Stroud.

Stroud is a one main road town and we were hoping there was some place to eat as Booral had all placed closed. There was a sign at the start of town that there were tea rooms and we thought at least there will be some tea. I wondered if there was Devon Cream Tea like we had once before in Victoria on the way to Ballarat. It was all the way to the other end of town and as we parked I said this does not look very open. Indeed there was no one about and the door was shut but the board outside said it was open 7 days a week. Then round the side I saw some people sitting around tables.

This was a lovely place tea rooms / café with store selling locally produced knickknacks as well as jams, cakes and biscuits made by Crepe Myrtle themselves. The menu was fairly extensive with teas, cakes, sandwiches, soups, pizzas, quiches and so on. However this was 2 pm and quiches were over. We could have nice cheesy garlicky pizza and cream tea. The scones were good and warm, the clotted cream light and homemade raspberry jam. It felt good to fill up.

Of we went happily up the Bucketts Way and the rain started. It soon became heavy and the water started flooding the sides of the road and the slightly lower areas. Soon the dips in the roads were awash with water. The wipers were going at double speed and it was still hard to see. We stopped for a few minutes by the side but then thought it might be wiser to try and get away fast. Paul was looking to the left and over to where the clouds were low on the hills and said what he thought was a small whirlwind hitting the ground. But as I turned around to look it had started dissipating.  As we went further we came across large branches across the rood, further up a couple of trees across the road. I think some 4 x 4 had driven through the branches and cleared one side. Maybe this is where that small whirlwind hit the ground. The rain had now slowed and we were trying to find small turn offs. The signs are not very big and on poles right at the edge of the road where they tend to get covered by the trees and bushes. So we were delighted that we found the Barrington W road as we thought at the end wold be the cottages we were going to. As the house numbers started going down we thought yes! we are on the right road. But then we seemed to go past the number we wanted but there was nothing in between so where did the whole place go? Should we call the place and ask? Oh yes did we have coverage on our mobile? Just then we saw the first and only man walking down the road. He said we needed to go to the end of the road turn right towards Barrington and then again first right on to the Barrington East Road!

North Tableland

Finally found the place and it is really in the middle of nowhere. The cottage is on stilts like so many places. The veranda faces west and overlooks the Barrington River.  There is a barbie, a lawn chair, a wooden bench, and wooden table and 4 chairs on the veranda. The sitting room had one 3 seater and 2 one seater sofas another wooden dining table and 4 chairs. The kitchen runs across the wall with a small hotplate and kettle and toaster. The cabinet has the heavy duty microwave and strangely the upper shelves are holding the DVD player, the satellite box and the TV on the topmost shelf. There is a fridge freezer in the other cubby hole.

River Cottage

You turn left by the fridge and it has the sink and shelves for your bits and bobs. Move forward into the toilet and shower cabinet. The bedroom lies to the right – nice comfy bed and built in cupboard, the full length glass French windows. All in all fairly comfortable but I guess it had been kept shut for a while so the inside was pretty hot. Opened all the doors and windows, made a cuppa and sat listening to the murmur of the river and wind in the trees. And then the heavens opened here as well. Sat and had some sushi (sadly found that sushi kept overnight in the fridge and then in the cool box does not fare well as the rice had become hard and chewy and it all felt a bit dry) and chocolate for dessert. Oh yea Paul managed to get the internet going and the TV so we settled in for the night.