Tuesday, 3 November 2015

Discovering the Landing Place of Endeavour

The day was going to be nice and warm even though it was still technically winter. I know, I whinge a lot about the cold but it is only because I feel cold a lot faster these day. The autoimmune disease seems to have flipped the thermostat switch in my body. I was used to the cold and actually enjoyed the cold weather. After living for a couple of decades in a cold country I was used to looking for a fan when temperatures hit 25C. The flip of my thermostat means 20C and out comes my fleece and warm socks and even a woolly hat if it’s lower than 17C! However, I can happily sit around without breaking a sweat till 30C and think about a fan only when it gets higher than that. Oh but I digress!!

Since it was a nice sunny and warm day and I was feeling reasonably good we decided to go out for a drive to some south beach. We had not been to Cronulla beach since we came here but had been there when we visited in 2009. I remembered that it is a much bigger bay and beach than the famous Bondi. Being a working day we thought it would be better as it would be less crowded. The drive was good and we got to the turning to Cronulla. It was a smaller road and as we went past a roundabout I thought we had missed turning right. My husband thought not. 

Anyway we carried on this Captain Cook Drive and the road became narrower. The sides had grasses and shrubs with the smell of brine in the air. We seems to be going right to the sea and not sure exactly where. I had a quick look at the road map and identified we would be reaching the end of the road at some point on Botany Bay at a place called Kurnell. The town has 2 streets and it curves out to run along the bay. The houses are really nice and the place looks cheerful in the sunshine. There were a couple of shops and a café / restaurant. We parked in front of the café with a little grassy strip and then the tiny strip of sand and the waves of the bay lapping there. There is a nice promenade to walk along the length of the street with benches to have picnics.



“Kurnell is considered to be ‘the birthplace of modern Australia’, as it is the place where Captain James Cook landed on 29 April 1770, making first contact with the original inhabitants of the area, the Gweagal Aborigines whilst navigating his way up the East Coast of Australia on Endeavour” (according to Wikipedia). From New Zealand, Cook had orders to find this ‘rich southern continent of Terra Australis’. The captain aimed to reach the coast of Tasmania but the gales took the ship to the south east coast of Australia hitting Victoria. They continued northwards along the coast and came up to a shallow but extensive inlet and the ship was moored for the first landing of the crew in this continent. At first the bay was called ‘Sting-Ray Harbour’ but later called ‘Botanist Bay’ as the botanists Joseph Banks, Daniel Solander and Herman Spöring found many new plant specimens. This was later shortened to ‘Botany Bay’. 




The end of the road leads into the Kamay Botany Bay National Park. The ‘Burrawang walk’ has a board to welcome the visitors all with a kookaburra on sitting on the sign. The path goes along the water’s edge, most of the time with a very tiny strip of beach now and then. 





There is a stone bollard like marker that signifies the place where the ship had been moored. There is also a memorial obelisk on the land. This place is called the Sutherland Point after a ship’s crew who is buried there. He was the first British person to die (due to TB) in Australia. 



There are also commemorations for botanists Daniel Solander and Joseph Banks. There is a small area where the path is across a narrow outlet of water going into the bay. On one side there is a curved seating area dedicated to Banks. 



Along the path on either side there is vegetation and actual information plaques about the local flora and fauna. The day we went there was a tremendous noise made by the frogs but could we even see one? No. There are ferns and grasses and many really old trees. 








Also along the edge there is a small wooden pier and with memorial plaques about the events of Captain Cook’s landing and their interaction with the aborigines. You can stand on the pier and look at the clear water gently lapping on the rocks or when it turns windy there are a lot of small choppy waves.












There was an oil refinery here that closed down in 2014. The day we were there we saw a big tanker and the platforms still being used. This is now going to be used as a terminal for importing petroleum. Across the bay and beyond the cranes is the Sydney skyline, the high rise blocks around the Circular Quay. Just round the corner from the bay is the Sydney airport and so during the day time there is a continual traffic of planes landing and taking off. The only thing that jars the usual twittering of birds and croaking of the frogs is the sound of these airplanes, particularly when the direction of the wind it inland.  





The path takes you to the Cape Solander (named after botanist Daniel Solander) which is the best place for watching whale migration in Sydney. There is the Solander Monument with plaques to commemorate the botanist. There is a lovely walk that takes you around the sand dunes and one sees a wide variety of plants which would have fascinated those botanists. All in all a very pleasant visit rounded off by a nice cup of hot chocolate and piece of cake at the café. Then we went off to find the Cronulla beach which was our original destination.




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